Cochin, India

photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commmons

Known as Queen of the Arabian Sea, Cochin is built on a series of interconnected islands and peninsulas. Considered one of the best natural harbors in the world, for centuries it was the center of the spice trade, and its geography and history distinguish it from any other city in India. The oldest European settlement in India, Cochin is a blend of medieval Portugal, Holland and English country village grafted onto the tropical Malabar Coast. Ancient mariners from the Middle East, China and Europe all left their mark on this beautiful island city, and its diverse past is reflected in its steep-roofed bungalows and colonial residences, spice and antique shops, and its cathedral, palaces and synagogue. 


This afternoon we took yet another highlights tour. We saw a lot of Cochin in one afternoon on a very interesting tour, leaving us with a whole day tomorrow to visit the Kerala  backwaters, 

First we drove to Mattancherry, the western part of the city and its first trade hub. Mattancherry Palace was built as a gesture of goodwill by the Portuguese in 1555, and presented to the Raja of Kochi to ensure ongoing trading privileges. Later alterations were made by the Dutch in 1663, giving the building its other name, the Dutch Palace. The museum is best known for its painted murals depicting Hindu temple art. The palace was hot and crowded so we didn't stay very long.

South of the Dutch Palace is the district of Jew Town. We spent a good hour wandering around there - very photogenic! A thriving district in the 1500's, Jews used to occupy virtually all the houses on Jew Town Road, where they sold fruits, vegetables and spices or worked as carpenters or oil pressers. The spice markets are still located on the narrow street, but most of the homes and businesses selling souvenirs, jewelry and "antiques" belong to non-Jews. Of the seven synagogues that once graced this street, only one remains, but it was closed today. 

Next up was a visit to the Fort Cochin area. We visited St. Francis Church, the oldest European church in India, built in 1503 by Portuguese friars. Vasco da Gama was buried here in 1524 until 1538 when his remains were taken to Lisbon. His sepulcher can still be seen at the church. 

We also made a short stop at the Indo-Portuguese Museum, housed in the former Bishop's house, surrounded by lovely gardens. The museum currently features exhibitions showing the Portuguese influences on Fort Cochin and the surrounding areas. 

And finally we strolled over to the water, past many vendors, to see the famous Chinese Fishing Nets, huge mechanical contrivances that hold out horizontal nets of 20 yards or more across. Each structure is at least 10 yards high and is comprised of a cantilever with an outstretched net suspended over the sea and large stones suspended from ropes as counterweights at the other end. Each installation is operated by a team of up to six fishermen.  It is believed Chinese traders brought these huge fishing nets to Cochin from the court of Kublai Khan. On shore you can peruse the "catch of the day" from many of the fisherman, and also, for a fee, pose working the nets.

The beach area was full of people enjoying themselves and the sea breeze, fish vendors, persistent souvenir entrepreneurs, families picnicking. All in all a good tour and a colorful day.