After two days at sea we were finally approaching Iqaluit on Baffin Island. This morning there was a face to passport check with Canadian authorities and other clearance formalities to be done, so we didn't disembark for our afternoon excursion until after lunch.
Iqaluit was founded in 1942 as an American airbase and was beefed up during the Cold War. The military left in 1963, the town remained a governmental administrative and logistical center, and today it is the territorial capital and largest community of the Canadian territory of Nunavut. About 8,000 people live there today and the population is growing, although none of us could really understand why people would choose to move here. It is only accessible by airplane, boat, dogsled and snowmobile. We mainly stopped there in order to clear Canadian formalities, which took a long time.
The wind kicked up to 40 knots prior to disembarkation via zodiacs in 3 groups. Disembarkation started late, maybe due to conditions, maybe due to Canadian red tape. The ship had to anchor a mile and a half from shore due to tides so it was a long, windy, choppy ride to shore. It took about 2 hours to get everyone ashore and many were soaked. Our zodiac driver, Chris, did a great job and we all remained dry, so he is your guy for heavy sea conditions. The landing site changed and it turned out to be a wet landing, which was OK since everyone was told to don their rubber boots and waterproof gear.
We were in the last group; once on shore we were told to walk over to their visitor center/museum where our tour would commence in a half hour to 45 minutes!!! You can imagine that after all the waiting we had already done that this was not welcome news. So we trooped into the museum, removing our boots at the door.
A couple of minutes later a local guide came in and said the bus is leaving in 5 minutes. So we hopped on, only to realize we were now in Group B rather than C. Off we went for a drive around Iqaluit, with a stop at some old Hudson Bay company buildings on a beach, through Happy Valley, Tundra Valley, to the Apex, past the school, past the women's shelter, past the dump... Finally we were dropped off at a "park" for a final chance to stretch our legs for a half hour, and the bus took off.
It turned out that there were only 2 buses for our 3 groups so everyone was left hanging at some point. When the last bus arrived at the park there was quite an eager rush to get on for the ride back to the ship. We managed to be last off the ship and in the 2nd zodiac back, so I would say we fared much better than those in group A who were first off, last back.
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| Baffin Island |
From the ship's expedition log:
Day 10 - August 16, 2013 - Iqaluit, Nunavut Canada
By Chris Srigley, General Naturalist/Polar Bear Guard
Co-ordinates: 63˚42’09 N, 68˚28’53 W
Weather: Scattered Clouds
Air Temperature:
Pressure:
Wind:
After two wonderfully calm days crossing from Greenland, Silver Explorer dropped anchor this morning at our port of entry into Canada, Iqaluit.
Founded as an American airbase in 1942, it was then known as Frobisher Bay; not until 1987 was its name changed to Iqaluit, meaning ‘many fish’ in Inuktitut. Now, the capital city of Canada’s newest territory, it currently has a population of approximately six thousand people.
Awakening this morning with a slight grin on my face, glad to be back within the borders of my own country, I dawned my zodiac gear and headed to shore to pick up the Canadian Customs Officers. Setting up their operations in the lecture theatre, the customs officers would have each passenger and crew member pass by them for a face-to-face passport check.With all formalities behind us Silver Explorer was cleared and operations for our afternoons activities in Iqaluit were ready to begin.
As zodiacs began to drop, winds started to blow upwards of 35 knots, putting us in danger of having to cancel our plans. With a decision made, imminent winds subsided enough to allow us to continue, but not without a long and choppy ride to shore ahead of us.
Doing their best to keep dry, the zodiac drivers headed to shore where Expedition Leader Robin West, along with the rest of the Expedition Team and our local guides were waiting. Time during disembarkation was of the essence as Iqaluit boasts an 11 to 12 meter tide. With everyone ashore, the tour began.
Heading off in different directions, visits were made to the Nunatta Sunakkutaangit Museum, which houses an incredible collection of Inuit artwork as well as a city tour.
Continuing we arrived in Apex town to inspect buildings from Hudson’s Bay Company. These particular buildings, having been built in the early 1900s, were part of a much grander history involving the Company and its expansion and exploits in the fur trade throughout the Canadian wilderness, dating back to the late 1600s and early 1700s.
Before returning to the low tide jetty and Silver Explorer, a stop was made at the Sylvia Grinnell Park for a walk amongst the ponds and tundra in search of wildlife and flora.
Returning to the vessel all were pleased to be going with the swell, it was to be a dry ride.
With another day behind us, our first of many in Canada, all were excited to have arrived. It seemed as though many good adventures were to come. Foremost, all onboard were hoping for another stunning show this evening by the Northern Lights! Fingers crossed…
Weather: Scattered Clouds
Air Temperature:
Pressure:
Wind:
After two wonderfully calm days crossing from Greenland, Silver Explorer dropped anchor this morning at our port of entry into Canada, Iqaluit.
Founded as an American airbase in 1942, it was then known as Frobisher Bay; not until 1987 was its name changed to Iqaluit, meaning ‘many fish’ in Inuktitut. Now, the capital city of Canada’s newest territory, it currently has a population of approximately six thousand people.
Awakening this morning with a slight grin on my face, glad to be back within the borders of my own country, I dawned my zodiac gear and headed to shore to pick up the Canadian Customs Officers. Setting up their operations in the lecture theatre, the customs officers would have each passenger and crew member pass by them for a face-to-face passport check.With all formalities behind us Silver Explorer was cleared and operations for our afternoons activities in Iqaluit were ready to begin.
As zodiacs began to drop, winds started to blow upwards of 35 knots, putting us in danger of having to cancel our plans. With a decision made, imminent winds subsided enough to allow us to continue, but not without a long and choppy ride to shore ahead of us.
Doing their best to keep dry, the zodiac drivers headed to shore where Expedition Leader Robin West, along with the rest of the Expedition Team and our local guides were waiting. Time during disembarkation was of the essence as Iqaluit boasts an 11 to 12 meter tide. With everyone ashore, the tour began.
Heading off in different directions, visits were made to the Nunatta Sunakkutaangit Museum, which houses an incredible collection of Inuit artwork as well as a city tour.
Continuing we arrived in Apex town to inspect buildings from Hudson’s Bay Company. These particular buildings, having been built in the early 1900s, were part of a much grander history involving the Company and its expansion and exploits in the fur trade throughout the Canadian wilderness, dating back to the late 1600s and early 1700s.
Before returning to the low tide jetty and Silver Explorer, a stop was made at the Sylvia Grinnell Park for a walk amongst the ponds and tundra in search of wildlife and flora.
Returning to the vessel all were pleased to be going with the swell, it was to be a dry ride.
With another day behind us, our first of many in Canada, all were excited to have arrived. It seemed as though many good adventures were to come. Foremost, all onboard were hoping for another stunning show this evening by the Northern Lights! Fingers crossed…
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